Any type of cotton or cloth will burn out during the firing process. For a different effect, you can try soaking cloth or cotton in slip and adding it to your piece for decoration. During the firing process it will fire out leaving just the thin layer of clay that it originally absorbed. Most people think that this only applies to porcelain, but it can be used with ceramic slips as well.
When carving into leather hard clay, first cover the surface with plastic Wrap. You can draw your pattern on it with a marker. And when you carve there will be no burrs.
Go collecting:
Leaves, flowers, pieces of wood, wire, shapes, kitchen tools, doilies, tablecloths any thing with texture are all great for imprinting onto clay.
Roll your slab, approx 3/4" thick, then place your texture items on the slab and roll to approx 1/2"thick, it is now ready to use.
You can place it in a slump or hump mold. Do a basic cylinder, cut into small shapes for jewelry etc.
Remember nothing beats a handmade gift, and with thought you will find the perfect thing for any individual.
For random textured slabs, impress food objects such as coffee grounds, wheat bran, and rice. Just make sure you don't get pieces of rice entrapped in clay or they may cause an explosion when firing. .
You know those rolls of rubbery stuff you can buy to cover your shelves to cushion glasses and plates? They make great texture when rolled into slabs.
The technique of burnishing pottery can be traced back to ancient times. Burnishing involves no more than rubbing the clay surface with a smooth tool to produce a mirror-smooth surface. In reality it has a compressing effect on the clay particles. It can be done when the clay surface is leather hard and up until it is almost completely dry. Most clays are suitable for burnishing although the finer the clay the smoother the burnished surface. Suitable tools for burnishing include: Smooth rounded beach pebbles, The convex side of metal spoons and smooth knife handles. After the pot is smooth, draw your design with lead pencil then scratch around design with a knife. Designs can either be geometric or organic. Once the pot has been blackfired it can be left without further treatment or polished with oils to enhance the shine.
To add texture to clay, try using perlite or vermiculite available at your garden center. Or, try popped popcorn.
Texture: It is generally a good idea to add texture to part of your test piece so you can see how the glaze will respond to texture and carvings.
Holes: Put a hole somewhere to hang your tiles on a wall board or to hang off the handle of the bucket.
Marking: Put some type of word or code that reminds what glaze this was, what clay it was on, and perhaps even firing temperature. Or simply number them and keep the details in a notebook by number.(One way to number is with one of those adjustable rubber stamps, the ones with wheels to change the number).
Dipping: Usually best to do three dips. First dip covers the whole area. Second dip covers 2/3 of the area. Third dip covers half the previous dip. So you have 1/3 with 1 coat, 1/3 with 2 coats, and 1/3 with 3 coats. (Keep the thickest coat the furthest from the kiln shelf in case it runs)
Layer multiple glazes:
For example, take a circle, dip 1/3 in glaze 1, dip 1/3 in glaze 2 (overlapping glaze 1), dip 1/3 in glaze 3 (overlapping glaze 2 on one side and glaze 1 on the other). So you get 3 solid colors, plus 3 overlap colors. Another example: take a square, dip ½ in glaze 1, turn, dip ½ in glaze 2. At this point you have two solids, plus 1 solid over the other. For the 4th section you could try layering the opposite way (glaze 1 over glaze 2 instead of glaze 2 over glaze 1), have an underglaze coat, or introduce a texture or a third color.
Other layering effects: For example, undercoat a section with underglaze, or paint an iron oxide and a cobalt oxide line so you can see if the oxide runs or stays put during firing.
To replicate the look of cloth, I would suggest using a very light cloth, and dipping it in a slip made of your body clay and water, make to a thick paste. The cloth will burn off in the kiln.
Use your imagination! Almost every household item or kitchen gadget you have will create a different texture when used on greenware. You may try dipping the various tools in slip as well to create designs.
Attractive edges on plates or special designs on vases are possible by sponging colour through plastic or other doilies.
How to do Easy Relief Surfaces
Flowers, abstract geometry, letters, anything -- making complex relief surfaces on your pots, tiles or sculptures is easy using shellac. This technique is especially suited to fine clays like porcelain or porcelaineous stoneware, but could be used on just about any clay.
Here's How:
Dissolve shellac flakes to a thin, creamy consistency in Methylated Spirits (Alcohol).
Paint your designs with various brush sizes on to bone dry greenware.
If necessary apply a couple of coats. This will depend on the initial consistency of the shellac.
Let the shellac dry thoroughly. If you're in a hurry, you can use a hair dryer set to 'hot'.
Carefully wipe back layers of clay with a wet sponge. The clay will stay raised where you have applied the shellac.
After drying, the process may be repeated for layers of various depths.
Decorate, glaze and fire as usual.
Tips:
Be careful not to use too much water at any one time, otherwise cracks may appear, especially on thin ware.
Further effects can be achieved by additional carving.
Try experimenting with other nontraditional resist materials, like house paint!
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Guru Spotlight |
Patricia Walters-Fischer |