October 5, 2001, Newsletter Issue #58: Users Questions

Tip of the Week

Question:
How can I eliminate the odor from my reclaimed clay? It smells like a sewer! (I`ve smelled this when cleaning out a grit trap at the optics grinding department at my company.) Will vinegar do it (saw something about this on the ClayArt archives)? Is bleach a bad idea (will it ruin the aging of the clay)?
Answer:
It sounds as though you have some beautiful clay there. There really is no way to rid it of the smell (and I know it can be very smelly indeed), but you must understand that the smell screams ´Great Clay!´ Souring of clay, the introduction of bacteria, in this case the introduction of cider vinegar to a clay batch, is used to promote plasticity. You are, indeed, fortunate as you seem to have a natural eco-system already in your reclaiming system. If the smell is too much for you, perhaps you could try cleaning your clay troughs, but I would really suggest you leave it alone.
Another way to disperse the odour is to dry out your clay and crush it before slaking it down. This eliminates the problems of dirty water, and the smell from same. The crushed clay can be stored in buckets and mixed into weekly lots. I do suggest, however, you reconstitute the clay at least a week ahead of use, and wedge well. A few notes on souring and mould follow: Fast Souring - Fast "souring" of reclaimed clay can be achieved by adding about a cup of organic cider vinegar to each 50kgs during the "accumulation" stage. Wedge thoroughly, then leave well wrapped in plastic for a week or three. The longer you leave it the better, but at least this way you don´t have to leave it for a year before you use it!

Mould - Mould that appears in moist clay is not only harmless, it´s beneficial. Mould will improve the clay´s plasticity, making it easier to work with. Some people even introduce organic matter such as old rotting leaves into their clay to promote the growth of mold. I hope this has helped. Please contact me again if you have any more questions.

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Question:
How do I drill a hole in a ceramic pot so water can get out?
Answer:
To drill a hole in a fired ceramic item, it is important to use a diamond head drill bit. Stuff the item with material, this reduces the shock to the ware, drill slowly and firmly, as any hammering of the drill could crack the piece. I hope this has helped *Happy Potting*

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Question:
I am looking for information on low-temperature firing clays... such as at what temperature they can be fired at?
Answer:
Low fired clays, Raku: a highly grogged clay, great to resist the thermal shock of the raku firing process, and a good handbuilding clay, can be fired from 700c-1300c. It vitrifies at 1000c, usually achieved in the bisque. Earthenware: Used by most studio potters favouring earthenware, includes terracotta. Vitrifies at 1060-1080c glaze firing, usually bisqued to 900c. I hope this has helped! *Happy Potting*

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Question:
How long on each setting for bisque 05 1 hour low-1 med 2 high & then shut lid & continue until finished?
Answer:
Although this sounds like a very simple question, it is not. The reason being every kiln fires differently. I would suggest 1hr low, shut lid 1hr med then high after the 570 degree dunting point is reached. Firing, though, is a matter of trial and error. *Happy Firing*

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